Tackling 5% of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track

Saturday 10 January

It would be rude to spend this long in the Abel Tasman region without trying a bit of the famous walk - Abel Tasman Coastal Track is one of NZ’s 11 Great Walks and is a 60 km trail of golden beaches, forested headlands, and crystal-clear bays.

The southern start or end is at Mārahau so after popping to Kaiteriteri for expensive essentials, we packed a picnic and togs and set off around midday from the official waharoa (entrance way) to walk about 3.5km to Coquille Bay.

We started on boardwalks across the estuary (tide out), were welcomed by Ngāmamaku, fearsome chief of this region around 1830-40, and then followed a path through bush along the edge of the various bays - being serenaded by cicadas and piwakawaka/fantails. We even saw a beautiful black fantail dotting about in the bush, but he didn't stop long enough for a photo sadly. The weka, however, had no such qualms about the paparazzi and hopped about all over the place - at one point leading us up the pathway to Tinline camp in a very authoritative manner!

We passed Tinline, the first or last camp on the trail, then descended to Coquille Bay which was quite popular but very lovely. My spiderman knee braces came in handy for this down hill section. We found ourselves a picnic spot on a driftwood tree trunk half way down the beach, and hopped in for a dip before defending our lunch from some very cheeky beach patrol wekas!

I had a wander round the cove then snoozed while Louis swam a couple of km to the next bay and back… woke to find a weka trying to pull my camera out of my backpack which he’d already knocked off the log!!! Cheeky weka!

It was hot work climbing back up from the beach, even though it wasn't that far. The clouds had come over a bit, but the temperature did not seem any cooler.

Walked back to the “autonomous independent enclave of Marahau” over a fuller estuary and drove back to Banjo for a siesta and dinner.

Lovely chat with Elaine who owns the farm we are staying on, and a fellow camper who offered to help tow us over the hill if the Pajero got all uppity again!

Cleared up & packed up after five days of settled camping, used the last of our water for a shower and fell asleep - tired & sun struck! The ruru called plaintively from the trees and the lapwings squawked loudly at one point - but other than that it was another peaceful, quiet night. 😴