A Kotuku & A fab Freedom Camp on A Grey Day
Wednesday 7 October
Our last morning in Ōkārito and we decided to try the trig walk - even though the skies were grey & unappealing. However we met a Dutch couple coming in off the beach who’d been photographing a kōtuku, a white heron out there. Louis continued on up to the trig but I diverted down to the sands with long lens in hand… ever hopeful!
And there he was, not far from the campground, just wading in a stream caused by the incoming tide - absolutely stunning. Sadly the grey skies and strength of my lens didn’t do him justice, but I was giddy with excitement seeing him relatively close up. Looking out across Ōkārito Beach in the first pic above - you can just see the white heron where the two bodies of water join in the middle. Such a stunning bird, the Kōtuku - these beauties held near mythical status in Māori history… their flowing feathers were reserved for cloaks & headdresses of the chiefs. Even in this dull grey landscape of stone, sand & water on a cloudy wet day, the stunning white elegance of the Kōtuku stands out 🤍
After annoying the beautiful heron for a wee while with my presence, I wandered down the beach, past a flooffy cormorant and some interesting driftwood, then back to the campsite.
Louis meanwhile had charged up the hill to the trig (which was somewhat damaged) but had zero view as a reward as he was virtually inside the cloud! I meandered home in a big loop, exploring behind the scenes in Ōkārito along the way! The path through the harakeke (which needed a bit of a haircut!) led me to two properties with cool fencing options (Victorian posts & rope accompanied by a stone levy and a fabulous collection of driftwood) and a planting of vibrant red & white tulips in full bloom!
Back at Banjo we grabbed a $2 shower at camp then packed up, said our thanks and farewells to Sue & Colin, the custodians, and hit the road north again. It was grey and mizzly all the way which was disappointing.
First stop was Whataroa, which is desperately in need of some tourism investment; however my favourite shop "Scraps of Beauty" was open this time and while they didn't have the dark pounamu earrings I was looking for, they did have a dozen pastel rainbow free range eggs for $9 which we added to our stores. (I bought my first pair of pounamu earrings here in January 2025 then lost one in Milford Sound, and while I have another pair as a replacement, they are not as lovely as the originals)
Next stop was Harihari where we had intended to stay at one of the POPs and do the coastal walk. But the damp grey weather wasn't very encouraging for a coastal bush walk and the POPs weren't hitting the spot for us so we started thinking about alternative plans.
We had lunch at the ceramic mosaics park with its fascinating tile labyrinth and eclectic artworks (I love the FRIENDSHIP mosaic sofa where you can sit and watch mosaic Simpsons on a mosaic TV!!!📺) while we made onward plans.
Next stop was the highly recommended Thomsons Butchery - they have a store in Hokitika but this is where the meaty magic happens! We got a couple of frozen chook breasts to throw in our freezer and four freshly made beef sausages for dinner - yum!
Walking up the main drag, we passed the war cemetery and some bizarre recycled tyre sculptures, then dropped into Rushes store where we got chatting with Janella who recognised Banjo! Fellow caravanning enthusiast and fabulous host at the cafe & store - her daughter baked the date scone Louis bought and I’m guessing that’s her photobombing the selfie 🤳 🤣 Lots of great tips for our next trip this way (including dig-your-own-hot-pools in the river)... thanks Janella and look forward to meeting you again! Maybe at Lake Moana?
Janella also confirmed that we should easily fit in the freedom camp near the estuary of the Waitaha River, out past Kakapotahi, so on her advice, we trekked on out to the coast and parked up there.
What a cool spot! We met Dave and Buddy Big Balls in their bus and as the evening progressed several other travellers parked up around us. By now the cloud had lifted enough to see the Southern Alps, blending a little into the grey background, and the wild beach on our doorstep was fabulous - strewn in driftwood and with crashing waves.
I popped out to the beach while Louis snoozed and found Buddy out there playing "drop fetch" with a slightly bemused young European guy who he had latched onto. had a quick dibble for Debbie (chilly but not freezing) and admired a rather breezy House at Pooh Corner (which sadly did not last the night).
Louis was awake on my return, so we both went out for a walk along to the estuary a little later - with Buddy keeping us company all the way! We headed south to the Waitaha River mouth and the spit by the estuary. The spit was covered in black billed gulls or tarāpuka - apparently they are an endangered species but there were a fair few of them here! Looking past the tarāpuka to the bluffs to the north, it looked like just the one, but actually, it was a double bluff! 🤣
As with all west coast river mouths at this time of year there were a heap of whitebaiters trying their luck, but we turned back here as there were also a couple of banded dotterels scuttling about and we weren't sure what Buddy would make of them (yup, he was still chilling with us!)
Once again the wild west coast surf was raging & crashing and it was stunning & windswept in both directions - good call to stay out here!
We settled in for dinner -Thomsons Butchery beef bangers - they were delicious! Then got on with some admin, I dashed out but missed the sunset, and the other campers around us chatted & partied into the night outside… we definitely felt old!
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