Luscious Lakes and Magnificent Mountains

Sunday 16 November

Southern Alps photo spam heading your way… we both woke early and decided to walk up to Pukaki Kettle Hole as the sun was rising. The tranquility of the big Lake was stunning, and the occupants of the 50 or so camper vans around us were all fast asleep as we climbed the wee hill to the waterhole.

Cracking views from the top… and perfect timing with the sun climbing over the horizon, above the Kurow Valley. The Pukaki Kettle Hole was created by a huge iceberg from a glacier which got settled into the moraine, or glacial rock, then eventually melted forming a void which filled with the melting ice and later rainwater. Kettle Lakes are generally isolated from streams or rivers and are dependent on rainfall to keep the water levels. This one had water being pumped into it, presumably to stop it getting stagnant.

Looking back down on the 50+ vans, mohos, sliders, tents and one caravan parked in this epic spot beside one of NZ's most iconic lakes, it is incredible to think that this space is free to all comers. Parking is in about four sections on several levels, but as we learned, most of it is wonky donkey and you have to get in early to nab a front row spot!

Bacon & eggs for Sunday breakfast, taken overlooking Lake Pukaki as the sun tinted the lake its customary glacial melt turquoise, with epic vistas to the left and right of us. The skies were clear and Aoraki stood proud against the blue skies, reflecting in the top of the lake.

Louis reckoned a dip would chivvy him up some more after his dawn awakening, so we walked round the A2O track to a wee bay. He was in and out in a few seconds proclaiming the temperature to be effing freezing!🥶 It was a beautiful spot for a dip, and I could be tempted to join him in a month or two, but late spring lake temperatures were not my thing!

We were slightly concerned by the time we got back that 75% of the campers had left, but the one parked 2m away from our tow hitch was still there, curtains resolutely closed. Were they asleep and missing this perfect day or had they set off on a day hike when we were out? Thankfully not the latter - we knocked on the door at 11ish and politely asked them to move so we could hitch up and leave, which they did - phew!

Sad to leave this stunning spot, with a bit of judicious wiggling past some dubiously parked campers, some bumpy rocks and dodgy dips, but more beauty lay in wait for us at Tekapo, just half an hour down the road - a welcome return to one of our favourite NZMCAs. At just $10 per night, with views of the lake through the trees, lovely flat grassy sites, and just 25 minutes walk into town this NZMCA is a winner.

Enjoyed lunch in the sun, cycled into town for a spot of pricey food shopping at Four Square then Louis headed to the mountain biking tracks while I pedalled home in a leisurely fashion, past the Church of the Good Shepherd, a very funky bach and a fair number of lupins. More lupins and epic lake views from Louis' mountain bike tracks.

Popped out again later to walk to the Church of the Good Shepherd and go lupin hunting… found them, plus loads of “lupin-fluencers” posing in amongst them for their insta moment! The Lake was so much fuller than when we were here in March - all the willows that were up to their knees in water had been stranded high & dry back then. Our local resident camp duck and her ducklings were out for a swim on the lake and there were quite a few other water fowl out there with them.

Having been snooty about the lupinfluencers getting their posed shots for Insta & TikTok, I soon found myself sucked in by the luscious colours of these "noxious non-native weeds", though I could not bring myself to strike a pose!

No visit to Tekapo is complete without checking out the Sheep Dog memorial statue or the stunning wee Church of the Good Shepherd. As it was Sunday, there was a service taking place so visitors were unable to swarm round the church gardens, but the door was open so you could get a long-distance peep inside. Behind the altar the usual stained glass window has been foregone in honour of a clear glass window as no art could compete with the beauty of the natural world beyond.

Back at camp we joined our neighbours Maureen & Tony for drinks and nibbles in the dying rays of sunshine (no photos, far too buy chatting, though we did get a duck visitation) then I took a final walk to the lakeside for golden hour amongst the willows, before we collapsed into bed, fully sated with glorious lakes, vistas and blue skies.

Hence today’s photo diary being even longer than usual - sorry!